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Next New Colette Pattern: Hazel!

11 Apr

Here’s Hazel, the second of the two brand-new Colette Patterns sundresses that I had the pleasure of testing for their new new spring/summer line! I love this pattern; when made with striped fabric, you get this very cool radiating lines effect. It is not quite so apparent in my photographs, but check it out in the gorgeous red and white example in the above links, or Sarai’s blue and white from her South America photo montage! Such cool stripes!!!

Anyway, here’s what I did for my tester version with a very lightweight pinstripe black & tan linen that I had on hand. The stripe effect is much more subtle, but you can still see it well in person.

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A couple of you mentioned how the silhouettes of the two new dresses looked quite similar so I tried to take some pictures to demonstrate the differences; please enjoy my dorky demonstrative poses below:

The similarities between the Lily and Hazel patterns are mostly limited to the straps, which as far as I can remember are pretty much identical. Also the waist hits in about the same place on both dresses. The back of the bodices are constructed in a similar manner, with princess seams rather than darts, and center invisible zipper. Everything else is constructed in a completely different manner. While Lily has a very traditional princess-seam construction, albeit with clever and flattering angles, flaps, and pockets, Hazel is an entirely different animal!

I haven’t made anything at all like Hazel before. Her bodice consists primarily of one big triangle cut on the fold, which has darts in the sides (overall effect a bit like the Superman logo, you know, the blunted triangley shape? cracking myself up), flanked by bias-cut trapezoids on the sides. Sarai is going to do a tutorial on how to do FBAs/SBAs on The Triangle because it is a little unusual! (I gather there’s going to be an actual sewalong too! I’d like to give this another go with that tutorial because as you can see I didn’t quite get there myself…) The other main difference, is the skirt is much fuller. It maybe isn’t as apparent in the heavier fabrics, but with this really lightweight linen, I think you can see the difference of the fuller, gathered dirndl skirt, versus the pencil skirt on the Lily. Pockets on Hazel are hidden in the side seams, in the fullness of the skirt.

The pattern recommended using three rows of gathering stitches to get good control on gathering the skirt. I’d never actually done that before, although I remember that popping up either on the Coletterie blog or in their email tips, Snippets, I can’t remember which. Wow, I’m a believer now- I don’t want to gather any other way!

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Ah, one last tip about the Hazel, you know what that triangle does, along with the side panels reflecting light in a different way? SLENDERIZING. Now, I’m a bony broad and not trying to say I’m not, but my midsection is without a lot of definition with regards to waist. Check it out>>>>>

See the optical illusion there? Eye thinks there is a nippy-in waist thing happening there! Rock on Colette Patterns! Sarai is so clever with these things!

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p.s. My grandmother‘s name was Hazel. I am a little goofy sentimental about that name!

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15 Responses to “Next New Colette Pattern: Hazel!”

  1. Molly April 12, 2012 at 8:10 am #

    Another great looking dress on you!

  2. gingermakes April 12, 2012 at 10:19 am #

    Really cute! You’re right– that triangle shape at the waist is really slimming!

    • atelierfargo April 16, 2012 at 8:42 am #

      Thanks! Yep it’s a clever design feature!

  3. Magpie Mimi April 12, 2012 at 11:10 am #

    Looks really good on you! I think I may need to find some superman fabric and make up a Hazel in it now just for kicks! hehe! Thanks for doing such a detailed explanation of the differences between the Hazel and the Lily. You’ve put my mind at rest!

    • atelierfargo April 16, 2012 at 8:45 am #

      LOL Mimi I am visualizing you in a superman-themed Hazel for a costume party, hm, probably doesn’t quite work but hilarious none the less!! Glad if I helped at all too!

  4. symondezyn April 12, 2012 at 2:25 pm #

    Hi Hillary! I was prompted to visit your blog through Lavender’s blog, and I have to say, I’m both thrilled and amazed that you got to test the new Colette patterns! What an honour!!

    It was love at first sight for me with the Lily, but seeing as how I have similar concerns waist-wise as yourself, I was a bit concerned about how the gathers at the waist of the Hazel would make my midsection look, but after seeing YOURS, I’m sold!! You look just adorable and the style is indeed very flattering 🙂 Cheers!

    • atelierfargo April 16, 2012 at 8:47 am #

      Yes I’ve been really lucky to be able to test for Colette. There are a lot of us; Sarai is very serious about getting all the bugs out before they go to press.

      I’m so, so glad (and flattered) by your comments about the Hazel! I think this pattern is particularly flattering, and can’t recommend it enough! I look forward to seeing yours- maybe at the Hazel sewalong?

      • symondezyn April 16, 2012 at 9:19 am #

        Maybe!! 🙂 Depends when it is…. I’m doing Sew Colette and am quite slow LOL so if it’s after that then definitely! 🙂

  5. Jo April 12, 2012 at 6:49 pm #

    Yay, love Colette patterns. I really enjoy the stripe effect 🙂

  6. Scruffybadger April 16, 2012 at 7:54 am #

    Really great dress Hillary (as usual!) & I also appreciate you spelling out the differences between the two sundresses. This one does look like some real clever construction & it’s great with stripes – subtle narrow ones like you’ve chosen, but also those wide wow stripes shown at Colette Patterns. I love your style, just had to say by the way. Before you got your blog quite a few of your outfits found their way onto my Flickr faves!

    • atelierfargo April 16, 2012 at 9:08 am #

      Ah, thank you very much on both counts, Winnie, it means so much to me!! I always look forward to your pix at the MMM/SSS events, and I sing the unofficial Scruffy Badger Time song in my head while admiring your wonderful creations- you always look like you’re having a great time, and that kind of zest is contagious!

  7. cjgal May 12, 2012 at 8:41 pm #

    I am so trying this one! Question, how is the sizing on this pattern? I’m not too familiar with Colette sizing, I’m a rtw 6, are these true to size? Run big, small? Thanks for your post, yours is adorable!

    • atelierfargo May 13, 2012 at 7:13 pm #

      Thank you! Colette sizing runs pretty close to RTW, with the caveat that they are drafted for a C or D cup. This pattern felt more like a D cup because I did do somewhat of a SBA adjustment already and it still fits like at least a C cup through the bust. I did also go down a size through the bust also, which is a standard thing I usually do with Colette, because my whole upper torso is shallow/hollow compared to the Colette block, which is more full and well-rounded overall all the way to the neckline (when there is one). Colette patterns are designed really for a more curvaceous body type than mine generally, but I’ve made so many of their patterns so I’m used to doing the hacks. There are a lot of tutorials on their website on how to do the most common of these too. I hope this helps!

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